Old-school Italian food in Williamsburg

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Photograph: David Rosenzweig

Before rock-star butchers, fancy cheeses and bean-to-bar chocolate put Williamsburg on food lovers’ radar, there was sopressata, made-daily mozzarella and cannoli: The area’s Italian community has roots stretching back more than 100 years. Old-school delicacies still abound, and the merchants live up to their homeland’s family-friendly reputation. Bundle up the kids for a walking tour of Italian Williamsburg’s hot spots—you’ll start with lunch, pick up goodies for dinner, and relax over pastry and espresso.

San Marco Pizzeria
The L train to Lorimer Street leaves you steps from your first stop. Brothers Cono and Dominic Manzolillo opened the pizzeria in 1969 after emigrating from the Naples area. They’re still behind the counter every day, Cono manning the pizza oven and Dominic making the perfect cappuccino, which draws swarms of older Italian gentlemen. The standard slice, a favorite of children everywhere, is call-your-mama good; even better is the “grandma,” a thinner-crust Sicilian, scattered with basil and fresh garlic. Robust pastas and soups rival those found in much fancier—and pricier—trattorias. 577 Lorimer St between Conselyea St and Metropolitan Ave (718-387-4861)

Tedone Latticini
Backtrack down Lorimer and turn left onto Metropolitan Avenue, where your family will find one of the neighborhood’s oldest shops. Georgie Tedone’s father opened the deli in 1922, and she’s been working there since the early 1940s. Now 91, Georgie still starts every day at 2:30am, making balls of fresh, milky mozzarella and—Saturday mornings only—some of the tenderest, tastiest roast beef to be found anywhere. Expect samples, especially for the little ones. 597 Metropolitan Ave between Leonard and Lorimer Sts (718-387-5830)

Emily’s Pork Store
Pick up tonight’s antipasti at the northernmost point of the tour, on Graham Avenue. Emily’s opened nearly 40 years ago, and today it’s run by her nephew, Gennaro. Sausage is the draw, both the dry sopressata and assorted fresh varieties—though tykes will be mesmerized by the colorful displays of imported cookies. 426 Graham Ave between Frost and Withers Sts (718-383-7216)

Savino’s Quality Pasta
Head south on Graham, then turn right onto Conselyea Street to find this relative newcomer. Owner Cono Savino was born and raised in Williamsburg, but he opened the shop with his mom and dad just six years ago. The cut-to-order fresh pasta, 15 types of frozen ravioli and (literally) made-by-mama sauces, however, are pure Old Country. On weekends, Cono’s young daughters often play in the store—don’t be surprised if they recruit your kids into their games. 111 Conselyea St between Leonard St and Manhattan Ave (718-388-2038)

Fortunato Bros. Caffé & Pasticceria
After all that walking, you’ll need a little treat. Head east along Conselyea St and make a right onto Manhattan to find this charmingly garish spot. Run by Biagio Fortunato, son (and nephew) of the founders, the bakery overflows with traditional sweets, and paisanos pack the tables. Cannoli, pignoli cookies, creamy cakes, house-made gelato—there’s plenty here to please both kids and grown-ups. 289 Manhattan Ave at Devoe St (718-387-2281)

Napoli Bakery
Back on Metropolitan near Tedone Latticini and the L train, score some bread (to go with Georgie’s mozz) at Napoli Bakery, owned by Nunzio Cirone and his sons for more than 30 years. The sheer variety is staggering: regular Italian, sourdough, semolina, whole wheat and focaccia, each in multiple shapes and sizes. For simple—but hardly plain—bread, order a “flour” baguette; if you crave something heartier, the lard bread attracts fans from all five boroughs. Like Georgie with her cheese, the Napoli crew sometimes offers bambini a free bread stick. 616 Metropolitan Ave between Leonard and Lorimer Sts (718-384-6945)

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