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Best macaroni and cheese for NYC kids

A Brooklyn mom taps the experts-a.k.a. her kids-for a cheesy crawl.

By Alison Lowenstein

Max says "cheese" at Building on Bond.
Photograph: Cinzia Reale-Castello

At ages seven and four, my daughter, Lucy, and son, Max, are seasoned macaroni and cheese connoisseurs who know that the most interesting versions come from restaurant kitchens around the city—not out of a box. Here, their very scientific field report.

Artisanal Bistro
2 Park Ave at 32nd St (212-725-8585, artisanalbistro.com).
The folks at this swank Art Deco palace really know their cheese—just check out the cave at the back.
The dish A side order of macaroni gratin ($9.50)—penne noodles baked with Comté, Gruyère and Parmigiano-Reggiano and topped with bread crumbs—elevates the humble m&c to an art form.
Lucy says "Very rich. In fact, my mouth feels sweet. I love it."

Blue Smoke
116 E 27th St between Park Ave South and Lexington Ave (212-447-7733, bluesmoke.com).
At Danny Meyer's BBQ joint, the above-average kids' prix-fixe includes a drink, a side and a dessert with a choice of entrée.
The dish An American and cheddar cheese blend makes for a simple, well-executed children's mac main course ($9.50 prix-fixe).
Lucy says "Very milky and creamy. Yum."

Bocca Lupo
391 Henry St at Warren St, Cobble Hill, Brooklyn (718-243-2522).
Early in the evening, families flock to the wine bar—which also has a children's menu—for casually elegant small-plate meals.
The dish Served with juice and a scoop of pudding, the kids' mac and cheese ($6) is a tangy blend of elbow noodles in Grana Padano.
Lucy says "Can I have another bowl?"

Building on Bond
112 Bond St at Pacific St, Boerum Hill, Brooklyn (347-853-8687, buildingonbond.com).
Eclectically decorated with animal skulls and LPs, the neighborhood hang serves a cozy café menu.
The dish Baked macaroni and a four-cheese sauce—cheddar, Gruyère, Parmesan and Asiago—comes topped with bread crumbs. The side order ($4) is the perfect size for tots.
Max says "If you're a big fan of cheese, you'll love this one."

Chat 'n' Chew
10 E 16th St between Fifth Ave and Union Sq West (212-243-1616, chatnchewnewyorkcity.com).
There's plenty to capture kids' attention here, from the vintage-style signage to the retro gum-ball machine. But families flock to the down-home eatery for its classic comfort-food menu.
The dish Teenie Weenie Mac and Cheese ($7), with Parmesan, cheddar and American cheeses and a crispy crust, is billed as "good for the young'uns"—and yours are sure to agree.
Max says "I like the crunchy top—when you look inside you can see all the cheese."

Cranky's Café
48-19 Vernon Blvd at 49th Ave, Long Island City, Queens (347-738-4921, crankyscafe.com).
Located on Long Island City's main drag, Cranky's offers plenty of diversions—including a large collection of board games—along with a homestyle breakfast and lunch menu.
The dish The kids' plain mac and cheese ($5), baked in Parmesan and cheddar, is generously portioned (in other words, parents, feel free to sample).
Lucy says "It's nice and buttery."

Dizzy's
511 9th St at Eighth Ave, Park Slope, Brooklyn (718-499-1966, dizzys.com).
Since 1988, Park Slope's "finer diner" has been serving up serious comfort food—along with crayons and coloring mats for the kids.
The dish The children's menu Mac Attack ($7) comes with fries and a drink served in a rocket-ship-shaped plastic cup. As for the main event: textured noodles smothered in American, cheddar, Swiss, pepper jack and Gorgonzola cheeses and topped with puffed rice.
Max says "I love the Rice Krispies on it!"

DuMont
432 Union Ave between Devoe St and Metropolitan Ave, Williamsburg, Brooklyn (718-486-7717, dumontrestaurant.com).
The cozy pub-style restaurant (with a year-round, heated outdoor garden) draws foodie parents and their lucky spawn.
The dish The renowned DuMac & Cheese ($14) is served in a casserole dish and blends cheddar, Gruyère and Parmesan cheeses with bacon and radiatore (radiator-shaped) pasta.
Lucy says "It's crispy, it's cheesy and has an amazing taste."

Macbar
54 Prince St between Lafayette and Mulberry Sts (212-226-0211, macbar.net).
Enjoy any of 12 mac styles here, including the Reuben (braised corned beef, pickled sauerkraut, Swiss cheese and rye bread crumbs) and the Maine-evoking Mac Lobsta'. The small Soho joint earns bonus points for its noodle-shaped medium and large plastic containers; in fact, the restaurant's curved shape is reminiscent of a piece of macaroni itself.
The dish The medium Margarita Mac ($9), with fresh tomatoes, basil, mozzarella and Parmesan, sounds like pizza in mac-and-cheese form. But it packs a zingy punch that may please adults more than kids.
Max says "It's a bit too spicy for me, but I like the tomatoes."

Pies 'n' Thighs
166 South 4th St at Driggs Ave, Williamsburg, Brooklyn (347-529-6090, piesnthighs.com).
Southern food reigns at this Billyburg spot, friendly to nosh-seeking drinkers and families alike.
The dish One side order of mac ($4), made with heavy cream and cheddar, is enough to keep two small kids (or one big kid) happy. Be sure to specify whether you want yours topped with Frank's RedHot sauce.
Max says "It's not too cheesy and I like the spice."

Sage General Store
24-20 Jackson Ave between Court Sq and Pearson St, Long Island City, Queens (718-361-0707, sagegeneralstore.com).
Limited seating at the country kitchen–esque café a couple of blocks from P.S.1 makes eating in a challenge, but the stellar grub is worth the wait.
The dish A blend of five cheeses—Fontina, white Vermont cheddar, blue cheese, Jarlsberg and Parmesan—packs big flavor into the small mac and cheese ($6).
Lucy says "It has a perfect amount of cheese. It tastes the way mac and cheese should taste."

S'Mac
345 E 12th St between First and Second Aves (212-358-7912, smacnyc.com).
Any variety on the lengthy menu here, from the textbook all-American to the Spanish-accented La Mancha (Manchego cheese, fennel and onion), can be made gluten-free or reduced-lactose.
The dish Even amid all the dairy decadence, kids can get their veg on. The nosh-size portion of Garden Lite ($8) is made with Parmesan and light cheddar cheeses, plus roasted cauliflower, garlic, portobello mushrooms, broccoli and scallions.
Lucy says "If you like mushrooms, this is great."

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December 16, 2010
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